The Fluffiest Swiss Roll with Blueberry Jam and Piles of Whipped Cream

Whisked-Up Swiss Roll. Photo by Jennie Ritchie

It was a busy night in our restaurant and service was in full swing. Orders were coming in for duck pizza and vegetarian nachos, mojitos and red wine. My french side chignon was holding together as I dashed from table to bar to kitchen hatch. The kitchen hatch was the least fun. My husband was on the other side, in a tiny kitchen, his head filled with timings and a question mark as to when the last check would be in and what had to be ordered for tomorrow.

“Our old neighbour is in” I said, with a concentrated nonchalance.

“That’s nice” he said, nodding in appreciation at their support of our little enterprise.

“…..With her family too. She just told me that it’s her birthday” I held my breath for it

“What? Why didn’t she ring ahead and book then? Now what am I supposed to do?”

“We’ll just offer her a dessert option with a candle in it - it’s what other restaurants do” I said in my most confident tone.

“No, I’ll make a cake” he said hotly.

He had created a tradition that he would whip up a cake for anyone’s birthday, but unannounced on a busy night was really making it tough for himself. However with the most studied chef-speed and finesse, he could beat eggs and sugar into a frenzied cloud of air and bake briefly in the oven and serve warm with berries and cream. There was always a worthy tip.

This is my version. It is a Mummy sponge, made for dessert when everyone is still hungry and there is no ice cream. Or when friends are coming for afternoon tea and we had scones last time. It is Summer and Spring on a plate, made only with eggs, sugar and a touch of flour. The jammy middle can be made from scratch while the cake cooks and the necessary mountain of whipped cream piled on the side.

I like it oozing with berries and not too sweet. You can persuade even the most waistline-conscious of friends to try a slice and the children will devour it. It doesn’t travel exceptionally well however, and I wouldn’t recommend it for picnics or hikes as it all becomes sticky and creates jammy fingers that need to be licked clean. Much better served with tea or after a family Sunday lunch.

The recipe is from the trusty Forgotten Skills cookbook by Darina Allen who matronly recommends that you have children nearby when you trim the ends before serving. I often make sure that they are not, however, and the spongy edgy bits are all mine.

You will need a stand mixer for this as I don’t like your chances at adding all that air by hand. Here goes:

110g plain white flour, sieved

4 organic eggs

110g castor sugar

2 tbsp warm water

1/2 tsp vanilla extract

10 x 15 inch Swiss roll tin

Preheat the oven to 190 degrees C and line the swiss roll tin with baking paper. Whisk the eggs and the sugar together in a stand mixer for about 10 minutes (I set the timer for this bit). It will grow to 3 or 4 times it’s original volume and be pale and silky looking. With the lightest touch, stir in the water and vanilla essence and then fold in the flour. Tip into the prepared tray and tilt it so that the mixture flows into all the corners. Bake in the oven for 12 - 15 minutes.

Lay a tea towel on the counter and a sheet of baking paper on top. Sprinkle the baking paper with caster sugar. Turn the cake onto the sugary paper and remove paper from the bae of the sponge. Next you need to roll it up while it is still warm and bendy. I like to roll it short and fat. Keep the paper in place and roll it up tightly. Wrap the tea towel around it and leave until you are ready to add the warm jam.

Meanwhile make a chia and berry jam by boiling about 500g of frozen berries with 4 tbsp of maple syrup or coconut sugar and 2 tbsp chia seeds. Boil for a few minutes, then leave to cool and thicken. This is great to whip up for waffles or even just toast in the mornings.

Next, unroll the Swiss roll and fill decadently with warm jam. Roll it up again, trim off the ends and serve with lots of whipped cream.